In 2007, Madame de Lencquesaing decided to pass on her vineyard, in order to secure its future. She chose Louis Roederer to take over from her. This family business headed up by Frédéric Rouzaud already owned two other Bordeaux crus, Château de Pez and Chateau Haut Beauséjour, in addition to other high quality wines in Provence, Portugal and the United States. For three whole centuries, just two families did their work to make the château and its wines famous. Today, a third family now oversees the destiny of this cru, with the aim of building on the work accomplished so far – and raising the level of quality and prestige still further.
The 2015 Réserve de la Comtesse is a powerful, tannic second wine that looks like it will need a few years in bottle to come together, as its structural spine is imposing at this stage. Dark, brooding and intense, the 2015 possesses magnificent depth and pedigree to burn. A host of black cherry, graphite, smoke, licorice and incense hit the building, intense finish. The 2015 is a gorgeous Comtesse, but the brooding style is going to take some time to come into its own. This is a serious second wine. Tasted four times.